“Throw your dreams into space like a kite,
and you do not know what it will bring back,
a new life, a new friend, a new love, a new country.”

— Anaïs Nin

I met Sanel on my second night in Mostar.

You might remember Sanel’s younger sister, Anela, from last week’s stories. I could tell she loved introducing me to her big brother, who is also an artist. As Sanel and I spoke on facing balconies, Anela ran in and out of their house, bringing several of his paintings outside for me to see: a barren tree in winter, Stari Most, a still life of three pomegranates.

I had a chance to chat with him more the following night, when Anela invited me back to her house after our sketching session on Adema Buca Street. Over coffee and cigarettes, Sanel said something I’ll never forget.

“My dream is to drink in an Irish pub. I have drank in one in Germany, but it does not count.”

This seemed fair enough, until it came up later on that Sanel doesn’t actually drink alcohol. I didn’t quite get it – why the dream to drink in a pub then, if the drink would most likely be Coke?

“Because a pub is warm,” he said. “I like wood – wood floors, wood cabinets. It’s many people in a small room. It’s so human. It’s a feeling. And it must smell of the coast.”

I found it a funny coincidence that my next destination after Mostar was none other than Ireland. Although most of my time in Dublin was spent at a conference, I had a chance to do one sketch on my final night in the city – and I knew immediately what it was going to be of.

I made my way to a pub called the Flowing Tide, where I had gone with a couple of good friends over the weekend. And as I sat and ordered a cider and began to lay out the sketch, there was a single question I wanted to answer. Let’s say Sanel and his wife booked a flight, arrived in Dublin, and made their way to a long-imagined Irish pub.

My question was this: Would it be everything he had hoped to find?

It didn’t take long to get my answer. The affable barman Joe was soon a constant presence over my shoulder, keeping track of the sketch’s progress. Later, after Joe’s shift had ended, a group of men from the national labor union said hello. I met Tony and Conor and Paul and John; they were drinking Guinness, I was drinking Bulmers, and all was right in the world.

Just about the time I finished up the sketch, they invited me to move on with them to another pub, The Celt. I was promised more cider and traditional Irish music, and that was exactly what I got.

There were wood floors and exposed brick walls, candles were burning in old Jameson whiskey bottles, and a guitarist was sat in the corner. As he played, the guys all sang along, to songs like “Big Strong Man” and “The Shores of Botany Bay.” They knew every word.

The guitarist, whose name I never quite caught, played a Spanish song in honor of a woman visiting from Madrid. He then asked if there were any other tourists in the room. Tony yelled out, “We’ve got a woman from Virginia!”

So he played that John Denver song, the one that people always start to sing when I tell them where I’m from, the one that goes, “Country roads, take me home, to the place I belong.”

Tony took my hand and led me to the center of the floor, and it was as we were dancing, both of us singing along and knowing every word, that I decided that when Sanel does in fact realize his dream of drinking in an Irish pub, I don’t think he’ll be disappointed.

It was warm, it was human, it was the feeling of many people in a small room. And yes, when you thought about it, you could almost smell the coast.

49 Comments

  • Candace,

    What a beautiful post! I loved traveling in Ireland and Scotland and popping into the pub for a pint. It has such a different feel than doing that in North America!!

    • Thanks so much, Kristine! I couldn’t agree more with you – back home it often feels like your only options are either sit-down restaurants or let’s-get-drunk-quick bars. I love how pubs are somewhere in between – more just a place to meet up with friends and hang out over a drink or two. By the way, how are plans for the Rickshaw Run coming along? So stoked to follow your adventure pretty soon!

      • Plans are going well, but time is flying by. It is amazing how much time and effort goes into fundraising and sponsorship!! Honestly, I can’t wait to get behind our rickshaw and see all that India will throw at us!

        • I so understand! Both about all the effort that goes into planning, and also just wanting to get to India and get the adventure started. But don’t worry – India will have plenty to throw your way soon enough 🙂

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  • Me me pick me! haha great post sweetie 🙂 love the photos and the sketches too! really cool to see all your art stuff laid out like that! I can just imagine you sitting there and soaking it all in 🙂

    • That sounds about right, Jess! There’s nothing I love more than spreading out my supplies on a table and taking in a new scene. Really glad you enjoyed the post, and keep your fingers crossed for when I draw the next winner on Monday 😉

  • As someone who doesn’t drink but collects shot glasses I can relate to Sanel. I’d love to visit a Irish pub in Ireland as well, I have always found the Irish so welcoming wherever in the world I’ve met them. I suppose it’s of little consequence trying to explain the difference from Virgina and West Virginia? I’m sure it certainly doesn’t diminish the experience 🙂 Happy travels for your return to the Balkans and beyond. Are you heading through Kosovo? I probably should avoid sending any recommendations on travel destinations since it seems its the likeliest way for you to miss that city or country. I’m totally hoping to win a postcard, I’m always a postcard sender never a receiver.

    • So many fun things to reply to here, Anwar 🙂 a) I loved learning about your shot glass collection – have a photo of it anywhere? It’d be fun to see how many you’ve got so far. b) I’d say the biggest difference between Virginia and West Virginia has to do with reputation – West Virginia is more rural and known for being a little more redneck 🙂 and c) I so wish I could head through Kosovo. At this point, though, I’m sadly running out of time…I’m due to fly out of Istanbul in a month, and I want to spend as much time in Turkey as possible! (especially to do the Evliya Celebi Way trek I mentioned before). So I think Kosovo may have to wait until a future trip, at which point I will absolutely hit you up for recommendations. and d) There are still plenty of postcards to come, so keep your fingers crossed!

      • Ahh cool, well enjoy Turkey! Istanbul is amazing, I’m excited to hear about the trek, how long will it take? I should photograph the collection one day (it’s in storage at the moment) but its a couple hundred I think at this point. I’ve been collecting them since I was like 6 or 7. Hehe oh I meant for you to explain to the Irish guys about Virginia vs. West Virginia. I do know the difference, I’m actually writing this reply from Virginia at the moment.

        I also highly recommend you visit a real Sema while you are in Turkey. I did it while in Istanbul and it was one of the most memorable experiences I had there.

        • Thanks so much! I think the trek should take around three weeks, but I’m hoping to do it in about two and a half 🙂 And thank you as well for the recommendation! I really, really hope I can visit a sema while I’m there. Any specific place in Istanbul (or even another city?) that you’d recommend?

  • I just visited Dublin in August, and I loved drinking Bulmer’s! I’m glad it made an appearance in your sketch 🙂

    • I’m so glad to hear we share a love for Bulmers, Laura 🙂 It was such a fun part of my week in Dublin, it just made sense to have it be part of the sketch!

  • Thanks Candace, this brought me back and you described a typical Irish pub to a tee. After reading this I’m even more so looking forward to heading back home in December and experiencing this in a local. Xx

    • It’s lovely to hear from you, Orla! And I’m so glad this brought back good memories for you 🙂 Hope all is well in Singapore and that you have a wonderful trip home later this year! xx

  • This is such a beautiful story! I love how eloquently you highlight the little intricate connections that wind around us all. I hope that he does make it to an Irish pub by the coast.

    • I really hope so too, Lindsey – listening to Sanel share his dream was a humbling moment, and reminded me how blessed I am to have the time and resources to book a last-minute trip to a place like Dublin. Thank you as well for your kind words – I’ve been blown away by all the connections that have unfolded on this trip, and truly love sharing them here with you!

  • Wow, this story just bought tears to my eyes. What a perfect experience! I loved Ireland both times I visited; I loved the Irish and their friendly, open nature. You’re never a stranger in Ireland. But I loved Sanel’s story too. Just lovely.

    • Thank you, Mandy! I’m definitely grateful for how my experiences in Mostar and Dublin weaved their way together through Sanel’s story – it made my time in Ireland that much more meaningful. So fun to hear you’ve been there twice – I can’t wait to return and explore more of the country 🙂

  • Beautiful story! And I can so relate to it. I studied in Ireland for a semester and I was surprised again and again by the warm and welcoming atmosphere (not only in pubs, of course). What I also really loved was the mix of generations in the pubs and the spontaneous traditional Irish music sessions.

    • Thanks, Anna! So fun that you spent a semester in Ireland…where were you studying? I’m so glad you had such a great experience, and yes – music in pubs is just about as good as it gets, isn’t it? 🙂

  • This is lovely. I really enjoyed it, especially with the quotes. A good character always brings a place to life. I was also at TBEX in Dublin. Shame we didn’t meet – I love your blog though! I discovered it through someone else I met at TBEX. Your illustrations are wonderful. A nice start to a Friday morning!

    • Thanks so much for saying hello, Steph! I’m so sad we didn’t have a chance to connect at TBEX – I love your London-focused blog, so it would have been great to meet you in person 🙂 Really glad you came across my site, though, and I look forward to crossing paths with you again soon!

    • Yay! I love hearing that. When were you in Dublin, Pauline? 🙂

      PS – Hope you’re enjoying “Beneath the Lantern’s Glow”!!

  • My husband and I recently returned from Ireland and you have captured the “spirit” of the pubs in your sketches. Thanks so much for sharing them in this way!

    • I so appreciate your kind words, Jaynie! I’ve got quite a thing for pubs – I love their laid-back vibe and homey atmosphere – so this sketch was a lot of fun to do. It’s great to hear you just returned from Ireland as well – whereabouts did you visit? Any favorite spots I should keep in mind for my next trip there?

  • Such a lovely story, and an even lovelier tribute to your new friend. I hope one day Sanel makes it to his Irish pub, though I won’t be surprised if after reading this story with your photos and your sketch he already feels like he has!

    • Thanks so much, Steph! I was really grateful for the chance to get to know Sanel in Mostar, and loved seeing his story weave through my time in Dublin as well. Hope you guys are feeling back to normal in Kathmandu!

  • I hope he gets to go someday. I’d really love to visit Ireland–it’s so beautiful! At least from what I’ve seen in movies/pics, and what people have told. I have a friend who went on a mission trip. Lucky girl.
    I love all the pictures you share, and the little bits of story you include. You do a very good job–makes your blog very enjoyable and personable.

    • Thank you for your kind words, Elora! I’m really glad you enjoy the stories – I certainly enjoy sharing them here with you 🙂 Fingers crossed you can make it to Ireland soon!

  • Hi Candace! This is such a lovely story and the sketch is awesome. I was at TBEX Dublin as well, and Brenna just posted this on her page – I’m glad she did. I’m definitely adding this to my reading list!

    Thanks so much for sharing.

    • Hello, Alyssa! I’m so glad Brenna’s post sent you this way tonight, although I wish we’d had a chance to connect in Dublin. I’m hoping to be at one of the TBEX events next year, so fingers crossed we’ll be able to meet then 🙂 I look forward to seeing you here again!

  • This is everything I wanted to experience on my one and only visit to Ireland, but somehow didn’t get to…I dream of going back some day.
    BTW, I love that JD song 😉

    • I’m so sorry you didn’t have a chance to experience an Irish pub when you were there, Gayla, but I hope you’ll have a chance to return soon. It was definitely one of my favorite moments in the country!

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  • This story made me smile and think of the evenings my husband and I spent listening to Irish music in pubs when we were there. I treasured the friendliness of the people and how some nights the circle of music grew and grew as people came and joined in. There was a woman at the bar that was in charge of passing the drinks to the musicians. In the course of conversation they found out she was a violinist and would be performing with an orchestra in the next country she visited, so they told her to go get her violin from her hotel and come play with them.

    • I love that you’ve had a chance to experience the magic and joy of Irish pubs yourself, Joan, and I especially loved hearing that story of the serendipitous violinist’s performance! That must’ve been such a special moment to witness and be part of during your trip 🙂

  • This story back book so many good memories of my time in Ireland. You really captured the feel of home and friendliness that only Irish pubs have. It brought me back to sitting with my dad, who had flown out to meet me, in a little corner seat in a busy pub in Galway. I was eating Guinness stew and he was eating beef and everything was perfect. I’m in love with your drawings and how they transport the reader to an actual picture book. I will absolutely be coming back for more!

    • Hello, Chris! Thanks so much for your kind words here, and for sharing a few moments from your own journey through Ireland — how special to have gotten to share it with your dad as well. I’m so glad to hear you’re enjoying my stories and sketches, and I look forward to sharing more with you soon 🙂

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