“To close that distance, to go step by step…
was a true pilgrimage, a journey of the heart.”
— Peter Matthiessen
On a bright Tuesday morning in Turkey, I set out alone from a tiny village called Hersek, to walk the Evliya Çelebi Way. Çelebi was a 17th century Turkish adventurer and travel writer, and this 22-day, 330-km trek follows the initial part of his pilgrimage to Mecca in 1671.
As I write this from my hotel in Iznik (hello, hot shower! hello, wifi!), I’m excited to share a few pictures with you from the first four days of the walk. It has followed asphalt roads for part of the way, but I’ve come to look forward to when my guidebook sends me off the asphalt – down old tractor tracks, or along quiet streams, or through acres of olive groves and tomato fields.
Yes, this greatly increases my chances of getting lost (a state of being I am slowly growing accustomed to), but I love the encounters it always opens up with local farmers and villagers.
At the end of my third day, I had paused by a junction in the woods to get a shot of the first official signpost for the trail I’d come across. As I did so, I could hear what has become one of my favorite sounds in Anatolia – the low din of bells, letting me know a flock of sheep is somewhere near. And above the bells, a whistling tune, punctuated every so often by a man’s voice calling out to the sheep.
I waited by the signpost, fairly certain they were coming down the same path I had just walked myself a few minutes prior. They did indeed appear soon after – an entire flock of possibly thirty or forty sheep – but what truly left me in awe was the sight of their shepherd.
He had to have been in his eighties, from the looks of his white hair and deeply lined face; he held a staff in his right hand; and on his left shoulder were balanced two long pieces of lumber.
And as he carried the no doubt heavy pieces of wood (“What are they for?” I wish I could have asked), the sheep and his three sheep dogs followed him, walking not a single step past him, treading lightly along the uneven, muddy path in a perfectly civilized, perfectly – dare I say? – elegant fashion. I said hello and held up my camera, as a way of asking if I might take his photo. The shepherd immediately stopped walking and gave me a smile I won’t soon forget.
I’m not sure why this scene struck me so much – and why it’s the one scene I want to leave you with today – but this man seemed to go about his life with a dignity and grace I won’t soon forget. With a grace I hope to carry into all parts of my own path through life.
The sight of that shepherd with his flock was worth walking three days to see, and will be worth walking another twenty for.
Hi Candace,
I decided to take on sketching, that’s when I found your blog. I have been enjoying your sketches as well as your words and your perspective on life for a couple of months now. Imagine my surprise when I read you would be going to Turkey: my homeland I left 14 years ago (I visit every year). These pictures are beautiful! I am from a big city, but you made me miss the sheep and those lovely paths. There is something in the air there that fills you with gratitude, isn’t it? I am looking forward to seeing your sketches.
What what a great photo of the shepherd there. Do you have a story about Asje as well? Wow so this is the first part of a longer pilgrimage Evliya Çelebi? I wonder if someone could take it all the way to Mecca perhaps…seems like its a bit cheating if you stop only after 330km no? 🙂
Hi Candance,
I found your blog after I decided to try sketching. Beautiful sketches! I should say though, I love your writing and your pespective on life as much as your sketches.
I have been following your blog for a couple of months now. Imagine my surprise when I read you’d be going to my home country, Turkey! It has been 14 years since I left (I visit every year), these beautiful photos made me feel homesick. I love that you are following Evliya Çelebi’s route, it sounds so exciting! I can’t wait to see your sketches.
What an amazing experience!!! Love the pics!
Wow! I have to say, that picture of Hassan and his sheep is my favorite so far. It’s absolutely amazing when you are able to catch something so simple and potent–life, in its essence, in a still frame. It’s amazing and not something that happens all the time. Thank you so much for sharing, and being such an inspiration!
Oh, the joys of following an olive-tree-lined path even further! I didn’t get to visit this part of Turkey when I was there, but it appears that you’ve been welcomed with the standard Turkish hospitality. Great pictures and safe travels!
how I love the photo of the path in the olive grove. sun-drenched in the late afternoon, it looks amazing. and I am imagining in my mind the sound of bells of flock of sheep. it reminds me of grandpa and grandma’s old house in the 80s, in the mountains, where they had the flock of sheep and how brother and I loved holding the lambs as they were the warmest and fluffiest creatures ever. heart is the best compass we have 🙂 amazing story. thank you as always! stay safe and enjoy!
Your Evliya Celebi adventure is worth sharing! The pictures were taken naturally and the smiles of your new friends are so accommodating. The flock looks wonderful! I just have one question, are the waters from the Yalak clean and safe to drink?
So glad I found this. I have been looking into this trek for quite sometime but never been able to find to much info. Cant wait to do it myself!
That’s awesome to hear, Tommy! How did you hear about the trek? I absolutely loved my time on the ECW and can’t recommend it enough. Just in case you didn’t come across it, I recently put together a guide on the ECW on my blog here – http://www.candaceroserardon.com/2013/12/evliya-celebi-way-guide – and if you have any other questions I can help with, please don’t hesitate to get in touch…my email is [email protected]. I hope you get to the trail soon!