“What will we eat in Prague?” my mother Janell asked me for weeks before we left for our trip.

It makes sense that she would, as I have indeed been to the city before – for three nights in 2008.

But I tried to explain that little details remained from that brief city break; that while I have “been” to Prague, I have not really been there. Not in a way that let it sink deep into my memory, anyhow, like only a few places ever  do.

I didn’t remember the words for hello or thank you (dobrý deň and děkuji), I didn’t remember the local beer (Pilsner being the most popular, of course), and I certainly didn’t remember what we would eat there.

And so our first days in the city are as much of a journey of discovery for me as they are for my mother. We eat koláč for breakfast – traditional round pastries filled with cottage cheese or fruit – and at dinner our first night, dining al fresco along Michalská Street, I order my first serving of beef goulash with my first Pilsner beer.

If my shameless repetition of the word here hasn’t been any indication, let me make it clear – there have been a lot of firsts on this trip so far.

But my favorite ‘first’ of all occurs after the sun has set on Michalská Street and our plates have been cleared. As I’m finishing my first sketch of Prague in the dark – of the elegant, palatial buildings lining the cobblestoned way – our waiter Standa brings over a candle and sets it down by my paint box.

I’m surprised by how much light it casts across my sketchbook, and moved by his kind gesture.

It’s my first time sketching by candlelight, and with a final swig of my Pilsner, I have to say – I could get used to this.

Prague travel sketch

Prague travel sketch

Travel sketch of Prague

63 Comments

  • Ah, Prague! Great city – a travel back in time when you wander off the main streets. This city gives new meaning to the term “Old Town”. And I love how you can find intimate classical concert venues in the most astonishing and ornate settings – old churches and palaces down narrow streets. Let me know if you figure out what all those little check marks and hieroglyphic writings are that the waiters make on the restaurant bills! Have fun.

    • Thanks so much for your lovely comment, Danielle! It was wonderful to read about your own time in Prague. So this might just be a guess about the restaurant bills, but at lunch yesterday, one of my Czech friends was explaining that to keep a bill straight, sometimes they’ll write down a beer (or item from the menu), and then just make hash marks next to it for each beer ordered. I imagine this would be especially helpful for large groups! Again, not sure if that’s correct, but it’s my humble guess 🙂

  • Lovely! Really like this sketch and a nice little story too. Enjoy your time with your mom. Hmm you know my first trip to Prague I have a hard time committing to memory too especially compared to a lot of other trips I’ve head.

    • Thanks, Anwar! Really glad to hear you enjoyed the sketch, and I’m also glad I’m not the only one to not remember their first time in Prague in too much detail 😉 It’s hard to keep it all straight sometimes, isn’t it??

  • Prague! Oh, how I love it—and I can’t believe it’s been almost 12 years since I spent a magical two weeks there. I hope you have a wonderful time with your mom—and be sure to catch a puppet show if you can! (If you’re into puppetry…it’s a “thing” there…)

    • Ahh! I love knowing that you spent two weeks in Prague, Chandler – we will definitely have to chat more about that in January 🙂 While we sadly didn’t have time to catch a puppet show, I’ll keep your tip in mind for the next trip!

  • Love your post about Prague! I hope you and your mom are having a blast!

    Well wishes from the Griffin house.

  • Prague, its a very pretty city and the Czech are wonderful hosts. I think what I really also enjoyed were the mountains and valleys outside the city to the north.
    Wish you a nice time, Greetings from Berlin. 🙂

    • Thanks so much for saying hello, Vipul! While I haven’t had a chance to explore north of Prague yet, I’m currently in the southeastern corner of the country (in Moravia), and am LOVING gazing out at the White Carpathians mountains every day. Such a stunning view!

  • Well, just making a silly comment, you know…going for that postcard, not that I have something to say here.

    Well, maybe I have something useful to say – if you do not want to pay extortion rate to enter the Jewish quarter in Prague, you can go to the 2nd floor women’s toilet at the Filozoficka fakulta and you see the Jewish cemetery from a much better perspective. Oh, an do try ovocne knedliky 🙂

    • No comment is a silly comment, my friend 🙂 And yes! I was indeed surprised by how much it cost to enter the Jewish museum and cemetery – if we’d had more time, we definitely would have paid to explore it, but I will keep your wonderful tip in mind for the next time I’m in town 🙂

  • I stumbled upon your blog somehow since I am currently traveling in India and adored your piece about traveling as a woman alone in India (I retweeted it). I adore your sketches, watercolors, and especially your stories. I would love to have a postcard sent my way – it would find it’s way into a frame in my home. I am sad you just left the West Coast, but the next time you are in the Bay area, I hope our paths diverge. Your work is divine and I look forward to the BOOK! Thank you!

    • Hello, Vanessa! It’s wonderful to hear from you here – I’m grateful to the internet and serendipity for leading you here today 🙂 Your kind words mean a great deal, and I really look forward to seeing you here again. And yes, I will absolutely be in the Bay Area again next year, so I will keep you posted! Thanks again for stopping by, Vanessa!

  • I just discovered your blog yesterday after reading your very inspiring post about solo traveling as a woman in India on Nomadic Matt’s site, something that’s definitely on my list! I am even more encouraged to do it now, after reading about your experience!
    I loved your style of writing and now I’m in love with your blog! Your sketches are so beautiful and they add something unique to your blog, something nobody else has!
    I’ve always wanted to go to Prague and although it’s only a daytrip away from where I live I’ve not made it yet. I’m thinking about going there before Christmas to go to a Christmas market. Is that a good idea? Any recommendations anyone?
    If I got one of your sketch postcards that would definitely be a sign for me to pack my bag and go!
    Cheers from rainy Germany!
    Christin

    • Hello, Christin! I can’t thank you enough for stopping by after coming across my post on Nomadic Matt’s site – it’s great to hear from you here. I’m especially thrilled you enjoy the sketches – I’m just at the beginning of my next sketching trip and will be sharing sketches from Eastern Europe and the Middle East, so I really hope you enjoy them!

      It sounds like a visit to Prague needs to happen soon, and although I’ve never been to one, I imagine the Christmas markets would be a perfect excuse to visit! Here’s a link that seems to be pretty helpful about the ones in Prague – http://www.pragueexperience.com/events/christmas_markets.asp – keep me posted if you end up visiting one 🙂

    • Little change of plans: I just booked a flight to Budapest instead of Prague. But I
      am still going to go to an Eastern Europe christmas market 😉
      I’ll let you know if it was woth it!

      • That’s still great news, Christin! I passed through Budapest briefly two days ago, and look forward to spending more time there this weekend – I’m sure it will be a beautiful place for you to explore, even if it isn’t Prague 🙂 And yes, please let me know which Christmas market(s) you end up visiting!

  • I also went to Prague with my mom back in 2011. It was the perfect city to visit with her. We both loved wandering around the city, and its certainly walkable!

    • That’s awesome you were also in Prague with your mom, Claire! And yes – we walked just about everywhere, too 🙂 Thanks so much for reading, hope to see you here again!

  • Sketching by candlelight, how utterly delightful! So glad your European jaunt has started in such serendipitous style, and can’t wait to see what lies ahead for you. Happy travels my dear xxx

    • Thank you so much, lovely! It certainly was a very serendipitous start, and I can’t wait to see where serendipity leads me next on this sketching adventure 🙂 Hope all is well with you and Lee – when do you head back to the UK? Keep me posted! xx

  • Love Prague – recommended it to some friends that are visiting later this Fall, and I can’t wait to explore more of Central Europe too!

    • Prague is pretty magical alright 🙂 I definitely hope you get the chance to explore Central Europe soon – any particular spots you’re thinking of visiting?

  • Super happy to see your post about Prague! I love the feeling of “firsts” in travel… there’s a certain special delight in discovering new things around the world 🙂 and lovely sketch!

    • I’m so glad to hear that, Hannah! And I love that you understand the delight of discovery that travel so often brings us – it’s pretty amazing, isn’t it? Thanks for reading!

  • I am excited that there are people in this world that still send postcards! Mailboxes should be full of more pieces of mail that take show thought & consideration (and that are pretty)!

    • Yes, absolutely! I’ve sadly fallen out of the habit of sending postcards over the last couple of years, but as soon as I saw a pack of blank watercolor postcards in the art store two weeks ago, I knew I had to bring them along on this trip! Hope you and your beautiful daughter are doing so well 🙂

  • Prague truly is a ‘magical’ city – possibly the most magical one I have ever seen. Hopefully you’ll get a chance to go down to Cesky Krumlov – another truly magical place. Just posted on your FB, but I’m so happy to have happened upon your page and blog. There aren’t enough people sketching – I love the simplicity of your work – so powerful. Happy travels!

    • Hey Lauren! Thanks so much for saying hello, both here and on FB – it’s great to hear from you 🙂 I’d actually never heard of Cesky Krumlov, but will add it to my list for next time – thanks for the suggestion! Really thrilled you stumbled across this blog, and hope to see you again here soon!

  • Wow, Prague! I’ve had this city on my list for far too long. There’s no proper excuse – flights are actually quite affordable from London. I just need to get myself together and make this jump for a long weekend.

    I’m loving your sketch too (as always!). I’ve been thinking about taking over some architectural drawing lessons (it has always been a passion of mine, and I used to spend hours with this… but I feel quite rusty). Maybe I even dip into sketching at some point – yours are so inspiring 🙂

    • Great to hear from you, Katherina! The first time I visited Prague was actually on a weekend trip from London, so I can certainly testify that it’s affordable and doable 🙂 I hope you’ll get the chance to visit the city soon, but I realllly hope you’ll take those drawing lessons even sooner – I love that idea and can’t wait to see what art the classes inspire!

  • I love your sketches and the way they bring added life to your descriptions of the places you have been! I would love a postcard!

  • Hello Candace,

    I am very inspired by your blog, and your travels. The writing style that you use on your blog is very inviting, I love it. I feel as if I am there with you on your adventures. Thank you for creating this blog. I am always excited to read about your adventures on fb or your blog. Have a great adventure today 🙂

    Dani

    • Hi Dani! I can’t thank you enough for saying hello and for your kind words about my blog – I’m thrilled to hear you enjoy it! Thanks so much for following along, and I hope to see you again here soon 🙂

  • Thanks to Nomadic Matt, I “RSS’ed” your website this afternoon. It is an awesome blog! I wonder what prompted you to type, “If it doesn’t, pllllease let me know…”? English being my second language, I understood clearly. 🙂 p.s. Signing in ASL is my native and first language

    • Thanks for saying hello and for subscribing! I greatly appreciate it. I’m also glad to hear my explanation of the postcard giveaway was understood – thanks for letting me know 🙂

    • Thank you, Fazila! I’m also eagerly awaiting your next round of sketches from Kansas City 🙂 Have you thought about posting them anywhere online?

  • Hope your lovely postcard ends up in my collection. Enjoy the food and candlelight. And, of course, your mom.

    • Hello, Dixie! It’s wonderful to hear from you here. I definitely loved the two weeks my mom and I had together in Europe…it was such fun to be traveling with her! I hope all is well with you and your family 🙂

  • That’s a lovely sketch! Really cute. Love the notes you put on it, describing the scene. And that waiter was so kind to give you a candle! Don’t random kindnesses just highlight one’s day? It’s awesome.
    By the way–I’ve heard of those breakfast pastries from Prague. I definitely will have to try them someday.

    • I’m glad you enjoyed the sketch, Elora! And yes, I always love putting the little notes and annotations on each one – I got the idea from a book on how to keep a nature journal, which encourages you to engage all your senses while drawing 🙂 Thanks for saying hello!

  • Oh koláč…I love it so much. My grandmother used to make a plum koláč when I was little. I couldn’t remember the name of it until she reminded us of it recently, but the flavor is burned into my memory. I cannot wait until it’s my turn to go to the Czech Republic. Looks lovely…glad you get to go with your mama!

    • No way! That’s awesome to hear about your grandmother’s kolaches 🙂 And yes – I’m sure you will love the Czech Republic. Prague is a beautiful place to explore, and I hope you guys can make it out to the countryside as well. In the mean time, keep enjoying Mongolia!

    • I love the subtle hint, Lela 😉 So sorry you didn’t win the latest postcard, but keep commenting and keep crossing your fingers! You never know…

  • Pingback: Sketching Amsterdam: Gratitude along the Singel Canal. | The Great Affair

Comments are closed.