Today is my last full day in Dharamsala, a fact that I am most unhappy about. But as such, it feels fitting that March’s travel sketch come from this little town that has won my heart over the last few days.
Now I’m sure that many people who know me (especially my sister) will claim that I say that about every place I visit, and let’s be honest – they’re probably right.
But there really has been something special about Dharamsala.
Maybe it’s because after five weeks of living by the beaches of Goa, to suddenly have the horizon dominated by jagged peaks and (when the clouds clear) the Himalaya, is a marked change in landscape.
Maybe it’s because I’ve been eating my weight in momos, a Tibetan (and Nepali) dumpling filled with either mutton or vegetables, and then washing them down with Chinar apple beer, a sparkling cider-esque apple juice made from Kashmiri apples.
Or maybe, just as I’ll be writing more about here later this week, to be in a place that has a purpose – a place populated by people cut off from their homeland and unable to return – is a truly thought-provoking and moving experience.
Whatever it is, what I do know for sure is that I will be leaving a little part of my heart here tomorrow.
But before I do, I want to share a travel sketch from my absolute favorite spot in Dharamsala. There is a ceremonial mile-long path that circles the hill on which the Dalai Lama’s home and temple complex sits. It is known as the Kora, or the Lingkhor as Pico Iyer refers to it in his book about the Dalai Lama, The Open Road (as the path around Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, is also called the Lingkhor).
Not long after beginning the Kora, you come to a spot where you can leave the path behind and climb up a somewhat steep slope to a white stupa, a dome-shaped Buddhist shrine – and it is there that I could lose myself every day, in the extraordinary number of prayer flags that have been strung across the hillside.
I have seen prayer flags before, but never in so great a number. When the wind picks up, which it often does, you can hear the flags fluttering as distinctly as though they were leaves on a tree, their delicate fabric rustling and whipping in the mountain gusts.
And on a concrete ledge just by the stupa, you have a perfect view of the mountains themselves.
It was to this view I returned on Sunday afternoon, after spending the morning on a march to commemorate the 54th anniversary of the Tibetan Uprising.
With their chants still ringing in my ears (What we want? We want freedom!), I sat down on the ledge, opened up my sketchbook, and turned to the valley below me for inspiration.
And obviously, this post wouldn’t be complete without the sketch itself. I can’t wait to share more about my time here in Dharamsala, but until then, I hope you enjoy this glimpse of prayer flags and mountains, and that it whisks you away to the Kora, no matter where you happen to be today.
I love your sketches! And I’m envious because I just don’t seem to be disciplined enough to make myself focus on sketching regularly while traveling. *sigh* In any case, I just departed from Leh, in Ladakh, just north of there and your images really remind me of the beauty in that peaceful place. So charming. Keep it up, can’t wait to read more!
Hi Jessica! Thanks so much for stopping by and saying hello 🙂 I have to admit – I myself am super envious that you just left Ladakh. Once I made plans to head to Dharamsala, I really really wanted to make it even further north to Leh, but apparently you can only fly in during the winter? How was it?! I really enjoyed checking out your blog, and hope to read more about Ladakh on it soon. And thanks for kind words about my sketches! I’m not always super disciplined with them either, but I do try to do at least one a week 🙂 Hope to see you here again!
Candace, yes, this time of year you have to fly into Leh! Quite a scary flight since the runway is so short and you come right through the mountains, very close on either side of the plane. We did have issues with flight delays both coming and going, but all in all it’s definitely worth it to go during off season. The landscape is beautiful, surprisingly desolate and very peaceful, the opposite of other places I’ve been in India since most people don’t want to brave the cold. There are tons of monasteries to check out, and pretty much my friends I and were the only visitors, so we had the spaces to ourselves!
Thanks for checking out my blog too! 🙂 I’m a bit behind, but I do have a post on Ladakh in the queue. I’ll let you know when it’s up.
Looking forward to continuing to follow your journey.
Leh sounds incredible, Jessica! A bit scary to reach this time of year, of course, but totally worth the adventure. Ever since visiting Sardinia in January a couple of years ago, I’ve really enjoyed seeing places in the off-season – they seem to open themselves up to you in a different way, don’t they? I’m so glad you were able to explore Leh (if a little jealous… 🙂 and I can’t wait to read more about it on your blog!
Candace – I, too, have been to Dharamsala, although not for some years, and it is wonderful to see it again through your eyes, your camera and your pen. A most special place evoked again within me, by you. You make me want to revisit.
I look forward to seeing you soon in another part of India,
with all best wishes,
Judith
Thank you so much, Judith! I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed the sketch as I really loved working on it. It’s wonderful to be exploring Tamil Nadu with you this week – heat and all 🙂
I just made this my desktop image 🙂 Love it.
Yeah!!! I love knowing that 🙂 Wish we could pop over to Momo Cafe for some momo boxes tonight….
I’m so glad you enjoyed Dharamsala, because now I get a desktop wallpaper of one of my favourite places, by one of my favourite people! My brand new laptop is looking incredibly pretty, thanks to you my dear!
Ah, Hannah, there are so many wonderful things in this comment. I am SO stoked that you have a new laptop – big congrats 🙂 I completely understand how good it feels to finally have one again. And I love knowing my little sketch is adorning your new desktop…that brings a smile to my face here in Tamil Nadu. Sending lots of India love your way to Thailand! xo
Hello Candace,
I liked the simplicity yet natural strokes of your sketch, particularly image 5 wherein snap of pens used and best one i liked is image 6 wherein you have shown sketch next to live scenario awesome.
do you have upload these on any image sites, best wishes for your future ones.
Regards
Deepak
Hello Deepak! Many thanks for stopping by and saying hello. I really appreciate your kind words about my sketch, and I’m glad you enjoyed the photos, too – I thought it might be fun to give a bit of context behind the sketch itself! I don’t actually have any sketches uploaded to an images site, but I will have to work on that soon – thanks for the suggestion. Thanks again for your comment and I hope to see you here again!