“Invisible threads are the strongest ties.”
—Friedrich Nietzsche
My sister Brooke is a bit of a social marvel. One Wednesday afternoon last year, we caught each other on gChat (not always an easy feat) and she excitedly told me about her plans for the evening.
“There was nothing going on, so I’ve called everyone and now we’re going to play volleyball and then get ice cream! I can’t wait!”
I responded appropriately (which obviously means with many haha’s and “that’s awesome!”) while at the same time shaking my head, in awe – as always – at how different we sometimes are.
“If that had been me,” I told her, “I would’ve taken the chance to stay at home and hang out by myself.”
Because that’s what introverts do, right? No matter how socially adept we are (or aren’t), we ultimately get our energy from ourselves – from alone time, not from being around people. This is also reflected in my normal travel style – notwithstanding one-off group adventures like the Rickshaw Run, most of my time on the road is spent solo (cue Jason DeRulo’s “Ridin’ Solo”…).
It’s just me, an umbrella, and the road.
But then I came to Spain.
The ‘S’ in Spain has stood for many things so far this trip.
S for Santiago de Campostela – where the Camino ends and I shook off my backpack after two weeks of trekking across the country.
S for Spanish – the language I can’t get enough of, despite my limited vocab and rusty grammar.
And S for storks – the ubiquitous bird here whose nests are impossibly perched on every bell tower (or campanile) in every village.
One thing ‘s’ has not stood for, though, is solo.
First, there was the Camino. Reputedly walked by some 600,000 people a year, every day I shared the path with scores of other pilgrims, reuniting each night in the dorms (or albergues) to swap stories from the Way.
Then there has been my time in Madrid, where I’ve been grateful for a home-away-from-home at my friend Erin’s flat, and also to explore the nearby town of Alcalá de Henares with Jen from London. But nowhere else was my un-solo-ness more the case than last week, at Pueblo Inglés.
Designed ten years ago to create a language immersion experience for Spaniards wanting to improve their English, the program calls in an equal number of native English speakers to chat it up with the Spanish.
What’s the catch? The Anglos (as native speakers are lovingly termed) get a free week in Spain. The Spaniards get to practice their English. A win-win situation, no?
Held over eight days, Pueblo Inglés has Spaniards racking up some 100 hours of contact with English. To accomplish this, the daily schedule is a mix of 6 one-to-one and two-to-conversations, presentations, conference calls, telephone sessions, group activities, entertainment, and three 3-course meals a day (which ensured that any weight lost on the Camino was most swiftly and heartily recovered).
“I’m going to be a professional coffee date conversationalist by the end of the week,” I tweeted halfway through our first day – somewhat in jest, but also somewhat to say, I can’t remember the last time I talked this much…ever.
The introvert in me was saying, “Freak out! You’re not getting any time to yourself!” And she was right – I even spent the short siesta we got every afternoon in the common room, the only place where we could pick up wifi.
But aside from a few moments of needing some space, I largely didn’t freak out. Our one-to-one conversations held so much of what I’d loved about the Camino that it almost felt as if I’d never left the trail at all. They were about connection, discovery, serendipity – all without the walking (which might not have been a good thing, what with all those hefty meals and endless free wine…).
We talked about why they were working on their English – it had little to do with the language itself and more with where it could get them. To an interview. To a promotion. To a dream job in Australia or Columbia.
We talked about relationships (spurred on by explaining the idiom of the day, “to break up”), about what it means to be happy, and about living in the present – not always setting our minds on the future.
Really, we just talked about life – and despite the many “brain traffic jams” (as one Spaniard put it), there was a flow to it all that felt pretty darn close to magical.
But then as suddenly as we had come together the week ended, quick, tearful goodbyes were said in Madrid and I found myself in Alcalá with Jen. Just before falling asleep Friday night, I scrolled through Twitter and came across a post on Brain Pickings – “When Einstein Met Tagore.”
We’re going to leave aside the coincidence of this involving Tagore, by whom I’ve been increasingly fascinated over the last few months (he’s a famed Bengali writer, the first non-European to be awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature and the composer of both India’s and Bangladesh’s national anthem).
What I do want to mention here is the answer he gave to Einstein’s first question, “Do you believe in the Divine as isolated from the world?”
Tagore says:
“Not isolated… I have taken a scientific fact to explain this – Matter is composed of protons and electrons, with gaps between them; but matter may seem to be solid. Similarly humanity is composed of individuals, yet they have their interconnection of human relationship, which gives living unity to man’s world. The entire universe is linked up with us in a similar manner, it is a human universe.”
There were two words in particular that jumped out at me – linked up – because of a photo I’d taken just the night before:
It was our last night as a group at Pueblo Inglés and after a farewell dinner in the village of La Alberca, we’d gathered back in the hotel bar for a few drinks and a bit (or a lot) of dancing. The last song was playing – Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” – and those of us still on the dance floor put our arms around each other and started swaying in a circle.
A few choruses in, I broke away, wanting to capture the moment on camera. And just then, as I perched over the ring of linked-up arms and new friends, it hit me:
This is what it’s about.
It – whether “it” be travel or life or whatever – is about who you go through it with.
It is about talking about what matters, even if language barriers threaten to get in the way.
It is about playing some of your songs on a crappy guitar for the group – not worrying about how little you’ve practiced or how nervous you are, but only because the entire week is about sharing and opening yourself up to others.
What I’m saying is nothing new. It’s the epigraph of E. M. Forster’s novel, Howard’s End: “Only connect…”
It’s the same revelation Christopher McCandless (i.e. Alexander Supertramp) had in Into the Wild, scrawling Happiness only real when shared on the pages of a book in the Alaskan wilderness.
Heck, I even just checked out the awesome new website of fellow blogger Zak Erving, only to see what he’d tweeted last night: “Just acted as impromptu photog on a #sunset #cruise. #Travel isn’t just about your own moments. It’s about sharing in someone else’s.”
And it’s what speaking English sixteen hours a day taught me in the heart of a Spanish village last week:
Connect. Exchange. Share.
Don’t get me wrong, though – the next time I’m free on a Wednesday night, you’re still most likely to find me curled up in a chair, book in hand, far from any phone, volleyball or ice cream.
Well, maybe not ice cream…
Check out other past Anglos’ stories from Pueblo Inglés:
- “Meeting the One” – I was honored to share the week with volunteer extraordinaire Terri Wingham, whose blog A Fresh Chapter is all about adventures of hope after cancer.
- “U is for Unforgettable” – our group of Anglos was pretty stacked in terms of bloggers…I loved getting to know this Texan writer, who blogs at The M Half.
- “The English Village Volunteer” – good friend and travel blogger Dylan Lowe also spent a week at La Alberca last year.
- “Pueblo Inglés: Best volunteer experience in Spain?” – this comprehensive piece by Lisa Lubin on Matador gives a perfect summation of the week.
Great post Candace! It brought it all flooding back. I was in La Alberca last October. I can’t recommend this programme enough. I’ve never laughed so frequently, opened up so much to strangers or felt so moved by people’s good nature as that one week on Pueblo Ingles!
Thanks so much, Arianwen! That’s awesome to hear you took part in Pueblo Ingles as well, and I’m so glad it was such a great experience for you, too. I didn’t know quite what to expect from the program, but it definitely blew me away.
Missing you and your un-solo-ness here in Madrid! Glad to have a glimpse into your last week. Looking forward to catching up one last time when you return next week.
PS – Jacobo and I just booked a flight to Morocco for later this summer!
Missing you too, lovely! I’ve been so grateful to get to know Spain through your eyes and can’t wait for our caving adventure next week. PS – Amazing news about Morocco! Where are you headed? I’m feeling a major travel planning session coming up next week 🙂
This is a beautiful post C.Rose, and I’m proud of you for pushing through your introversion and making the most of it! You are so missed here.
I’m trying to figure out what I am… I used to be like Brooke to the extreme, now I need my own space to survive. I think I’m an extrovert with introverted tendencies haha!
Also… reply to my email lady! 🙂
xxx
Thank you, M.Rose! I definitely remember some of our conversations about your evolving personality style 🙂 Wish we could meet up at La Tasca for tapas to chat even more about it. And yes! Email coming your way within the hour…so sorry for my horrid delay. xx
Girl, you really nailed it with this post! I definitely agree: if there’s one thing travel does for you, it’s to make you more social and open. During my first big backpacking trip, even though I was staying in hostels the entire time, I met almost NO new people. Seriously!! At the time, I just wasn’t interested – I much preferred to experience things by myself. Now, I can’t imagine a trip without going drinking with hostelmates, getting a bunch of silly photos of you and former strangers together, changing your plans based on the advice of others, walking away with a slew of new contacts and Facebook friends…my social life while travelling is SUCH a far cry from what it was that first trip, ha!
Of course, we do still sometimes need time alone to decompress 😉 Your experience in Spain sounds like so much fun…and such a good deal!!
Hey Naomi! Thanks so much for your comment–and it’s awesome to hear about how your travel style has changed over the years. I think that when we first start out on the road, we’re given so many words of advice and caution that it’s only natura to be a bit more cautious and closed. But I couldn’t agree more–it can be so beautiful to open yourself (and your plans!) up to the world and see what happens 🙂 Here’s to many more adventures for you! (and yes…you should definitely look into Pueblo Ingles, for both the great deal and the experience.)
It’s interesting how the way we view others can be so different. Solitary is not the word I’d use to describe you… I suppose I should publish the post that you inspired…
http://withinireland.wordpress.com/2012/04/28/talking-to-strangers/
Hello, mon ami! Thanks for your comment, and for your lovely post…it was so fun to explore Alcala with you and I wish we could take another trip soon. Here’s to our Indian adventure, whenever it may happen 🙂
Oh, Can Dance. 🙂 I don’t know how I missed this post before, but reading it took me back and brought fresh tears to my eyes. What a beautiful 8 days, and what a humbling talent you have for writing. I knew that, of course, by listening to the songs you played with that “crappy guitar” and knowing, somehow, we have soul sister linkage to each other. You’re a pretty phenomenal extrovert faker, I’ll give you that!
I craved alone time after that week, big time. I enjoyed some serious solo time until meeting up with Hubs in Madrid. It’s been a whirlwind 3 weeks since then.
I love this post, C. Big time. Hugs and love to you. Oh, and I hesitate about “Texan blogger.” I’ll take Coloradoan living in Austin instead. 😉
xoxo
Can’t thank you enough for your kind words, M! I feel so blessed to have met everyone at Pueblo Ingles, especially soul sisters like you and Terri, and I can’t wait to see how our paths cross again. I’m glad you were able to fit in some solo time before the J Half arrived in Madrid – my time on Mallorca was definitely just that, too. Lots of reading, walks, and long quiet breakfasts 🙂 When are you guys headed back to Texas?
Hey Candace! I was the Anglo Coordinator when you did your program and I met you at the lunch the day before. Anyway, I’ve just finished my job with PI (new adventures in the new year!) and also completed my 5th experience of the program, second at La Alberca. It never ceases to amaze. Anyway, I am writing another article (or perhaps mini ebook) about the experience along with another article about introversion for my new website and I remembered you. I thought I’d take another read of this article…beautifully written!
Hey Adam! Great to hear from you, and I’m glad to hear things are going so well. What adventures does the new year hold for you? 🙂 Thanks for popping back by my site – and definitely let me know when your new article/e-book about PI is done, I’d love to read it!
Well, I’m back to England for Xmas/new year…then off to Thailand and surrounding area for about 3 months. No set plan, I’ll figure as I go, and write about it I suspect 😉 I’ve liked “The Great Affair” on facebook and see some of your updates…great stuff, keep it up! I’ve just started a new FB Page, “Mediocrity To Mastery” if you’re interested. I’ll be posting some stuff there as well as on the site. Perhaps see you somewhere around the globe!
Nice one, Adam! I’m actually off to Thailand myself on Friday for about three weeks 🙂 Hope you have a lovely Christmas and I look forward to reading about your journey once you hit the road!