“Many travelers find themselves saying of an experience in a new country that it wasn’t what they expected, meaning that it wasn’t what a book said it would be.”
— Edward Said, ‘Crisis [in Orientalism]’
India, so it seems, is a popular place.
Whether visiting the three points of the Golden Triangle [what the cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur are known as] or other major spots in Rajasthan, it hasn’t always been easy to feel at home amongst so many other visitors.
As I’ve been negotiating the space between what I expected a place to be like, and what it actually is, in each city we’ve visited something has helped me make each place my own.
1. Changing perspective in Agra
While sunset at the Taj Mahal was a moving sight, I happened to be fighting hundreds of other people to get just the right angle on the lighting. The next morning, however, my friend Nambi hired a rickshaw driver to take us to the other side of the Yamuna River.
From the opposite banks, we could then take in the Taj without feeling like we were competing for our view. This simple change in perspective, which allowed us to quietly sip on cups of chai while watching the sunrise, helped me feel that much more at home in Agra.
These photos were taken on my iTouch, so I apologize for the lower quality! Note to self: don’t forget to put your camera battery back into the camera after charging it…
2. Getting crafty in Jaipur
After spending a week in our rickshaw, passing through the countryside and rural villages, I’ll admit that suddenly being Just Another Traveler in Jaipur wasn’t easy. Nambi yet again sensed my unease and led us into the back streets of a more local bazaar.
There, I was able to meet four sisters who all work together painting and selling traditional Rajasthani water pots. Listening to them joke with one another, watching them adjust their headscarves when I asked to take a photo, was the best part of our night in Jaipur.
3. Making friends in Jodhpur
Our first impression of this other well-known city in Rajasthan was that Jodhpur–known also as “The Blue City”–wasn’t blue. What changed Jodphur for me was our group deciding to set out late the next morning and enjoy a leisurely breakfast at a local guesthouse’s roof-top restaurant.
While Mr. Prakash cooked up our omelettes, we got to know his three-year old child–whom we initially thought was a most adorable little girl, only to later confirm she was most definitely a he.
4. Scaling new heights in Jaisalmer
The Golden City’s proximity to the Thar Desert makes it an ideal base from which to set out on a safari–and the local reps from various tour companies never cease in asking if you, my dear friend, are interested in one.
What helped me make Jaisalmer my own was spending hours in various roof-top restaurants around the city. Whether choosing a place outside the ancient walls to give us a view of the fort, or eating inside the fort itself, each cafe was a little oasis in which to hide and relax.
5. Going green in Delhi
And now I’m in the capital, working on some travel blogging projects. I unknowingly booked three nights in a hotel that is right in the heart of the backpacking area of the capital–what is known as Pahar Ganj, or the Main Bazaar.
While I’ve spent most of my time checking out the city’s main tourist spots, what has stayed with me isn’t the sights themselves, but the green space that surrounds them–and the breath of fresh air it offers.
Hi Candace, Nice idea to get other peoples perspective on their travels. Most of the time when I travel I am with your Mom. When at all possible, we prefer to do more walking than taking buses, taxis, or subways. We see more stores, people and restaurants close up rather than whizzing by. Plus , we burn a few more calories as a bonus, which means we might be able to have dessert without the extra pounds. Of, course, your Mom can eat all she wants without gaining an inch. I am the one that has to be careful with the diet:)
Thanks, Padre! Yes–walking always is the best option, isn’t it? Nothing beats some ground-level perspective on a new city–that, and some good desert 🙂
I want to eat at rooftop restaurants like that every day! 🙂
Thanks for your comment, Naomi! And yes, I would love to as well 🙂 Do you have a favorite spot to dine a la fresco?
That little one is a he? Hmmm… fooled me too! must have been the pearl earring. Either way, it’s a beautiful photograph you’ve captured – as per usual!
I know! Hard to believe, isn’t it? But unfortunately I saw the hard evidence, despite the beautiful features and long curly hair…He was adorable, though–definitely made our morning in Jodphur!
Hey Candace! Who do you travel with? Are your trips sponsored?
Hey Lela, thanks very much for stopping by and saying hello! I usually travel alone, and my trips aren’t sponsored – thankfully I earn enough from my writing to keep the travels going on their own 🙂 Occasionally I write hotel reviews for other sites, so that stay will be comped by the hotel itself, but normally not. By the way, I just checked out your blog and really enjoyed reading your about section – I look forward to seeing some of your art!